Our first trip of the day was to the Dobsina Ice Cave. It was a twenty minute walk uphill from the road to the cave entrance in a collapsed part of the cave. We then descended hundreds of steps down a metal staircase fixed over steeply sloping sheets of ice, wall to wall, in the cave. The ice forms in winter as water drips through the rock into the cavern chilled by cold air descending into the cave. Even in summer the temperature only rises just above freezing, and over thousands of years layer upon layer of ice has built up. The most spectacular feature was the sheer volume of ice - the layers were visible in several places. The formations are apparently best in spring, but even so there were some curious shaped ice stalagmites. Difficult to imagine that the cave was used for skating in the past! |
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Coming out of the cave was like entering a humid tropical forest - and soon it began to rain just to add to the illusion (although the temperature soon felt normal & cool!). After an hour's walking we decided to curtail the walk & return to the hotel & try again later. A much reduced group set off later in the afternoon to visit the pilgrimage church of Marianska Hora, just outside Levoca. Inevitably it was still raining, so the views from the top of the hill were rather limited. The church itself was plainer than the one in Levoca (positive), but less historical (negative). Many plaques commemorated the visit of Pope Jean-Paul, who we reckoned hadn't plodded up the hill on foot.... |
Time to move on to the next hotel, and I thought it would be a good idea
to have a group photo of everyone shut in the 'cage of shame', Levoca's
answer to the Naughty Step. However, someone had locked it up, so the
group had to cling to the outside instead!
We set off in the coach through the mist, and it wasn't until an hour later as we approached the High Tatras that gaps appeared in the cloud & we rose above the mist. the tops were still shrouded in cloud, but we got a better idea of the scale of the mountains than when we had passed here 4 days ago. As we drove along the foot of the Tatras the whole feel of the landscape changed - the forests (albeit thinned by calamitous winds in the last 30 years), the wooden buildings, the manicured & green ski-resort features gave it a real Alpine or even North American feel.. Just the odd large institutional style building suggested we were in East Europe. |
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The walk started in a busy resort, Strbske Pleso, by a
glacial lake complete with rowing boats for hire and ringed with hotels
and cafes. At last we were off (slippery) limestone and on to granite as
we set off up a large moraine, heading for another glacial lake,
Popradske Pleso. Unfortunately the tops of the mountains never appeared
from the clouds, but it was a pleasant walk nevertheless, and it was
interesting to see so many locals out hiking the trails.
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The next hotel was in the Low Tatras, with more forested slopes and no spiky bits. There had obviously been a wood carving demonstration outside the hotel, and we were invited out to see the biggest spoon in Slovakia (!), carved from a single tree-truck. Useful for supping with the devil I guess..... |
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Today we were supposed to go up to Chopok peak by ski lift, then do a ridge walk to Dumbier Peak. However the web-cam at the base station showed thick fog at the top & the forecast gave no hope of it clearing, so we decided to abandon plan A, and do plan B. This involved a long drive rewarded by a guided visit to the stunning castle of Oravsky Hrad. The original 13th century part was squeezed onto a narrow limestone ridge outcrop. Subsequent extensions had added towers, walls and stairs below this on the side of the rock. A real Gormanghast of a castle, and not surprisingly the film location for the 1922 silent vampire film 'Nosferatu'. It took two hours to be guided up staircase after staircase, exiting the top floor of one building to go straight into the bottom floor of the next. Definitely worth a visit! | |
Heading back out of the High Tatras we wound our way through small villages of mainly wooden houses, and were dropped off to walk down a steep sided valley to a restored water-mill. The overshot wheel was working, but they hadn't restored all the grinding equipment yet. The water-driven sawmill was used to produce their own timber (highly inefficient & a very expensive product, according to one of the volunteers on site!). Still, an interesting project, with some very friendly goats.... |
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Bear watching day today, so a very early start - leaving the hotel at 05.30. Unfortunately no-one told the bears that they had to appear and despite creeping up the track without the normal loud conversations we saw precisely nothing! But it was a fine, if exceedingly cold, morning and we continued walking through the forest, with the sun occasionally penetrating the mist. The path was lined with granite stones (not always flat) and rose steadily to reach a saddle at 1876 m. A very chill wind blew through the gap, which looked down on some glacial lakes at the head of the adjacent valley. |
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Not content with the view from this saddle seven of us continued up to the next saddle at 1993m, the draw being that we would be on the Polish border. The mist swirling over the saddle prevented us from having more than a fleeting glimpse of the glacial lakes in the Polish valley below us. Never mind, we bagged another country by stepping over the ridge! At least if the bears didn't put in an appearance the chamois didn't disappoint us. |
By this time in the holiday it seems that some tiredness had crept in, so four people decided to have a 'boots off' day, visiting the local town of Liptovsky Mikulas. The rest of us headed off in the coach up the Ziarska valley, past an old iron mine and then some very active forestry work, to the Ziarska Chata mountain hut. Here we split again, with two people heading back down the valley and the rest of us walking steeply up the granite flagged path towards two mountain passes. The mist was swirling around us, and we occasionally got atmospheric views of the valley and the mountain sides. There were the best bilberries we have seen so far alongside the path.... |
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All but two of the remaining party made it to the Smutne Sedlo, at 1963 m,
the final ten minutes being in a light snow drizzle. The snow was
beginning to settle at the pass, and as there was no visibility at all we
decided against the planned ridge walk and came back down the same way we
had ascended. There was plenty of time therefore for hot drinks in the hut
on our return, as well as a glass each of 'Tatra tea' - which had nothing
to do with tea, and everything to do with strong alcohol! Thanks Miro for
introducing us to this!
With that fuel some of us headed 15 minutes up the hill to view a waterfall, stopping en-route to look in the memorial area for people who had died in the mountains - from heart attacks to avalanches as well as falling. All very sobering. |
Thursday dawned bright and clear and we had high hopes of returning to the cable car at Chopok. However, the sub-zero temperatures and increasing cloud forecast persuaded me to opt for the safer 'High Tatras waterfall' option, which started at Strbske Pleso, our previous Sunday start point. This walk started well, if cold, as we walked up a moderately graded rocky granite path. It took about 1½ hours to reach a viewpoint below the waterfall - more of a cascade over rocks than a free-fall one. |
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A dozen hardy individuals continued up alongside the falls, to find floppy chains 'safeguarding' a traverse across sloping rock, and then another to help the ascent over steep rocks. The reward for the ascent was the view over a glacial lake up to the upper reaches of the Mlynicka Valley. By this time a very light dusting of snow was falling..... | |
Our scenic picnic spot (chunk of chicken in dry bread, again) was somewhat spoilt by the low temperature - so we weren't hanging about, or even contemplating continuing up the valley. the draw of the lakeside cafe meant that the descent was quite rapid! Our final walk ended with a relaxed stay in the cafe tasting 'raw fruit cake' and flaming 'Tatra Tea' amongst other things. |
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The end of a tour normally means a bus ride straight to the airport, but after a four hour journey from Liptovsky Jan we arrived at Bratislava Castle for a short tour of the city centre. We had left the mist and cold behind, and the sun was shining in Bratislava. After a quick view of the outside of the Castle, and the inside of the Cathedral we followed Miro through the back streets to a restaurant which produced its own beer. It had an amazing range of traditional dishes on offer and virtually everyone had something different (except for the three of us having cabbage soup!). Delicious! | |
After lunch we had a short wander around the streets of the old town before squeezing back in our bus and being transported over the border back to Vienna airport. As always, a subdued farewell after a really enjoyable tour - made really good by the friendly and professional way Miro guided us. |
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