Monday Jan 26


Kingston FlyerTime to move on again, this time to Te Anau, ready for the Milford Track Trek. We had fabulous views over Lake Wakatipu as we headed south, with puffs of cloud hanging on the upper slopes of the mountains across the water. At the southern end of the lake we stopped at the former rail & ferry terminal - busy in the days before there was any road along the lake shore. Here a steam train, the Kingston Flyer, pulls tourists along the first 16km towards Invercargill, and two of the group availed themselves of this opportunity to escape the coach for 30 minutes! After that we headed to Te Anau, located on the largest lake in South Island, for lunch and our new hotel. In the afternoon we had the (video) briefing about the trek and picked up rucsacs and macs for the three days.
The Kingston Flyer approaching Fairlight Station

Tuesday Jan 27 - Friday Jan 30: The Milford Track

McKinnon MonumentThe highlight of the holiday: undertaking a 4-day hike in an area with an average annual rainfall of 7 metres! This is a trek unlike any others, especially if you do the 'guided' option, rather than walking it independently. The guided option means that you stay in comfortable lodges, albeit in bunk rooms, with all food provided, along with drying rooms, foot-care sessions and nature information along the way.

We started with a soup and sandwich lunch in Te Anau, joining the 35 other walkers who had come from Queenstown. This was followed by a group photo and a coach journey to the jetty at Te Anau Downs for the hour-long cruise up Lake Te Anau to the start of the walk. Everyone was sizing up the rest of the party....who were they, what would they be like, can they walk etc.Group at start of trek

Monument to Mackinnon; 'discoverer' and first guide of the Milford Track
At last we reached the jetty, dipped our boots in disinfectant, and set off on the long journey - of 1.6km to the first lodge! By this time it was late afternoon, and after finding our bunk rooms everyone set off on an hour-long nature walk with the guides - our first close encounter with ferns, mosses and epiphytes that would dominate the rest of the walk.

Part of the group at the start - the rest had already started!
The evening started with a short briefing, an excellent dinner, and then a long session where everyone was called up by country, and had to introduce themselves - very useful as a stimulus for later conversations with these 'stranger', but some found it cheesy! Based on my last years' experience I got all the group to join in on 'Nellie the Elephant' - and got complaints from the other walkers over the next few days that they couldn't get the tune out of their heads! No-one forgot our group after that.....

Tom tit on pathDay two started at the relatively late hour of  6.45 when the generator came on - and the daily pattern of getting up, making sandwiches, consuming porridge followed by cooked breakfast, followed by departure between set times began.  Day two was fine, and day two was easy as well - very little ascent as we walked up the Clinton Valley, hemmed in by high rock walls. Tea and soup we provided at the lunch stop and we were entertained by a patrolling Weka - a bird that looks like a cross between a Kiwi and a chicken. Later on the walk a number of us swam in Prairie Lake - a lake formed by the explosive effects of avalanches in winter. The water was cold, but close to the rocks the surface water was warmer, and almost bearable. There were numerous bird-calls, and the inquisitive New Zealand Bush Robin and the Tom-tit made star appearances on the path at times.
A tom-tit guarding its territorywashing duties
After the walk each day, having rehydrated with orange or tea, stuffed the odd scone and cream, it was time for the domestic chores - mainly washing walking gear and drying it. At Pompolona Lodge at the end of day two there were some hardy, and partly effective, mangles to help the drying process and to give anyone over the age of  58 a nostalgic feeling.
Washing duties at the Pompolona mangles
Mount Cook LilyDay three, and the forecast was not good. The rain held off as we continued up the Clinton Valley and approached the zig-zags up to the Mackinnon Pass, but began to fall gently as we climbed up through the forest and up to the open upper slopes. From the top of the pass at over 1100m we should have been able to see down both sides of the divide, and up to the surrounding peaks and glaciers. Unfortunately the low cloud put paid to that, although we had brief glimpses of the Nicholas Cirque we had climbed beside, and down to our next lodge, Quinton House. The lack of good views did mean that we paid more attention to the immediate vicinity - the alpine flowers and the avalanche zones we had to cross..Sutherland Falls
Mount Cook Lily - the worlds largest buttercup

After crossing the pass, and having a life saving hot drink in the Pass Hut, we had a long descent, steep in parts across the slope at first and then down beside a tumbling river with beautifully worn and shaped rocks. It was hard to see how the original users of the pass, the Maoris looking for greenstone, found their way up and over the pass. Mackinnon and Mitchell's discovery of the pass in 1888 followed their tracks, and soon led to the first tourist treks under Mackinnon's guidance.

drenched from the fallsHaving reached Quinton House in good time most of the group headed for the Sutherland Falls - a 540m long ribbon of cascading water. Despite the low cloud we could see the top of the falls, and then it was time to investigate the bottom of the falls by walking over the slippery rocks behind the falls. Er, it was wet, and despite not being near the main fall of water the power of this peripheral spray was impressive. Just as well each lodge had effective drying rooms!
Sutherland Falls
Laurie and Rene (on the left) recover after the drenching




Prince of Wales FernDay Four started with the rain dripping off the veranda roofs and water filling the ditches beside the path. It didn't let up until the evening and we were settled in the lounge of Mitre Peak Lodge and collecting our certificates for successfully completing the 33.5 mile walk. Between breakfast and supper most  of the time was spend with hood (or brolly in my case) up and head down and plodding down the remaining 200m descent over 13.5 miles to Sandfly Point.
Lunch StopIt was largely ferns all the way - Prince of Wales ferns to start with, then a dash of hen and chicken ferns, followed by tree ferns of every dimension . The rain gave us one bonus - there were lots of waterfalls dribbling down the valley sides. En route there was a brief break at the boat shed for hot drinks, then a cool damp lunch at the shelter by Giant's Gate Falls. Sandfly point was well named, but luckily we didn't spend long there, but headed across to Milford Harbour by small boat.
Soggy Lunch stop
Prince of Wales Fern
Sandfly Point boatI would have included a clear picture of this here, but my camera had misted up by this time, so I include a steamed up photo instead!

Catching the boat from Sandfly Point

Saturday 31 January

Milford SoundMorning view from Mitre Peak Lodge towards Milford Sound
The last day of the Milford Track experience was a cruise on Milford Sound. With some relief we saw that the rain had stopped. With some annoyance we saw that the cloud was still there - giving a very atmospheric appearance to the fjord, but obscuring all the valley sides and peaks over about 500m. The cruise was peaceful, relaxing and interesting - the seals, the traces of tree avalanches, the croissants, and a knowledge that the friendly companionship we had had with 35 other strangers was about to end. Milford Sound
And end it did after the return coach ride back to Te Anau.

Milford Sound


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