Australia June 2013 - Visiting Squid: Part 3

Thursday 13 June

Another early awakening, and another clear and sunny day, and a delicious bacon butty for breakfast. Well before 9am we drove off, through several creeks, to reach Gorge III - Bell Gorge. From the car park we had to paddle through the river as it flowed over flat sandstone rocks, then climb up over a rocky ridge before a steep scramble down to the river again at the foot of a waterfall. Our first of many dips; we swam up to the tumbling water, then floated downstream to the next falls. Beautiful swimming in the cool water, and just in time, as a number of backpackers and other groups turned up as we were leaving, turning the peaceful spot into a crowded beach.

Bell Creek, above the gorge

Cold? It's just your imagination

We weren't the only ones bathing!
After that refreshing stop it was back to the Gibb River Road (or the GRR as it became in my diary!) and on to the roadhouse at Imitje. Here we filled up with fuel: for the vehicle (Derv) and for us (coffee, sandwich, chips). 25km further on we came to the turn-off for the Mornington Wilderness Camp. Here we had to stop at the radio booth and call ahead to book our camp spot for the next two nights. It then took two hours to drive the 88km to the camp, run by the Australian Wildlife Conservation organisation
We found a spot after booking in, left the vehicle and then walked the 'Annie Creek Trail', which followed along the thickly wooded river. Helpful signs confirmed that we had spotted a couple of the endangered bird species here - the Purple-headed Fairy Wren and Scarlet Finches for example. Returning to the camp-site we found a better camping spot, so moved the vehicle and set up camp.  Using the gas barbeque/hob provided Squid cooked up a bacon, cabbage and lentil dish, preceded by beer and olives - delicious! Given that the site boasted a bar and restaurant it seemed rude not to go and have a drink!

Squid in the kitchen

Filling up at Imitje

Radioing to the Mornington Wilderness camp

   Friday June 14

We stayed another day in Mornington Wilderness, in order to increase the number of gorges visited. I woke early (at 5.40 just before dawn) and for once managed to get up & walked along the Savannah Woodland trail. I was rewarded by the rising sun making the 1.8 billion year old rock-faces glow a deep orange, contrasting with the white bark of the ghost gums. back at camp, after break fast we had our first domestic session of clothes washing - taking off, and putting on, the tarp over our gear in the back of the vehicle always coated our clothes with a fine and firm layer of red dust. 

Ghost gum and rocks at sunrise

Ready for the off!

Cruising down Dimond gorge

Eventually we got going and drove the 24 km to Dimond Gorge, stopping en route to look at views and flowering trees (especially the kapok tree). At the gorge we picked up the double kayak we had booked, and set off down the gorge, drifting below the folded layers of sandstone in the cliffs either side of the gorge. It was extremely hot, and the recommended picnic lunch stop at a waterfall proved to be dusty and dry. We returned to our starting point for a swim, and then left to head back towards the camp and visit the Cajeput water-hole, a tranquil stretch of the river Fitzroy, for another swim.
After a quick check of the time, and reading the area guide, we figured we would have just about enough time to visit the Sir John Gorge - especially as it is recommended to visit at sunset. En route we almost reached the speed limit of 40kph, but mostly due to the roughness and dry creeks to cross, we were well below this speed. More of concern was Roy Creek, just before the Sir John Gorge, where 4WD was recommended, our first encounter with this gear. I was driving and bumped successfully through this bouldery creek and up the incredibly steep river bank, to reach the car park..

River cormorant

Kapok flowers

A dip in the Cajeput water-hole

Waiting  for sunset at the Sir John Gorge
The river here, with flat sandstone rocks on either side, bathed in the rosy sunset, was fabulous. As the wind dropped the reflections of the red rock became clearer; still and atmospheric. The only thing that made us leave was the desire to re-cross Roy Creek before dark, and getting back to the camp-site in time for our booked 2 course meal in the camp restaurant at 6.30pm. It was a real gourmet meal to be enjoyed in such a remote location: stuffed chicken breast, with polenta, vegetables and roasted balsamic tomatoes, followed by chocolate pudding with raspberries and cream. All for $55 per person  - ouch!

Sir John Gorge (or Gorge V of the trip)

Saturday 15 June 

The day started with Squid bumping into a doctor from the Flying Doctor Service she knows in Derby - so even in the wilderness she knows people! He was just up for a couple of days with a friend visiting from England (sound familiar), so we gave him the low-down on good gorges to visit.

Then we set off back to the Gibb River Road, and up to Gorge VI, Galvans Gorge. This was the most accessible gorge, as the parking was directly on the GRR, followed by a short walk through the forest.  Here we found a small pool below a 20m waterfall brooded over by dramatically located Boab tree This was a wonderful swimming spot for diving, swimming and just sitting.

Boab tree on the road out from the Mornington Wilderness Camp

Cold? Moi?

Galvans Gorge
Next stop, civilisation! or rather the Mount Barnett Roadhouse, where we succumbed to burgers and chips. We decided to book here for the Manning Gorge (Gorge VII) camp site, just 7km off the road from the roadhouse. This was a crowded and sandy site, but we just parked the vehicle and set off to walk to the gorge. This involved crossing a creek ('the lagoon') in a small aluminium tub, hauling on a rope spanning the creek. Then there was a2.5km walk across rocky slabs and through tall grasses, following painted arrows and white blobs on rocks. After crossing a number of dry creeks and valleys we arrived above the gorge, looking down 30m to the river below. we clambered down a series of rocky steps and reached a pool below another waterfall. Another swim was in order, although the shadows were getting longer the water flowing down over the warm rock meant the water was cool, rather than cold!
There were few people around, but luckily one was a guide who gave us directions to find some 2000 year-old aboriginal rock art on the scramble out of the gorge - which we found. Squid lingered in the lagoon for another swim, while I hauled myself back across the water in the now waterlogged boat (kids had been playing in it!) and started collecting twigs for a camp-fire. other campers seemed to have felled a forest for their fires, but my twig-based fire managed to keep going, with much smoke, for a couple of hours.

Manning Gorge, looking that way

Manning Gorge, looking the other way

Gorge wildlife I

Gorge wildlife II

Aborigine drawing of a lizard

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