June 5: Arrival
Of course, at Toulouse airport it was warm, fine and sunny. Up in Paris the finals of the French Open Tennis Championships (Nadal v. Federer, again) were being interrupted by rain. Over the border into Andorra the black clouds were amassing, and all the new arrivals' hearts were sinking! There were 22 of us in the bus - myself, another leader, John, and 20 expectant walkers, if you will pardon the expression. The rain began to fall...June 6: Encamp
The morning, however, brought some sunshine and warmth. The
group divided neatly into two groups, and I headed up the
valley by bus to Soldeu for the D+ and Flower walk back down
the valley to the hotel. As it was the second time I
had done this walk it was relatively easy to locate the
interesting flowers. The information boards in Catalan also
seemed less mysterious this time!It remained warm for a picnic (close to a Butterfly Orchid) above Canillo, and later for a visit to the Meritxell Sanctuary with the 1970's church adjacent to the restored chapel which until a fire in the 1970's contained a 12th century statue of the Virgin Mary, Our Lady of Meritxell, patron saint of Andorra. having refreshed the soul (possibly) we headed for the bar to refresh the body.
The 1970's church at the pilgrimage site of Meritxell |
Had we known the amount of water that was going to fall from the sky on our way back down to the hotel we would possibly have cut these visits short. But we didn't, and we consequently got soaked. This did enable us, however, to explore the basement of the hotel for the drying room, finding a games room in the process..
Bath Asparagus, or Ornithogalum pyrenaicum to give it its proper title
June 7: Encamp
The morning sky looked OK as all the group headed up the valley in Vicente Rubiol's mini-bus. Admittedly the tops of the mountains were touching the clouds, but we were full of hope that the rather dubious weather forecast would be wrong. This hope remained with us as both groups climbed up towards the Pessons Lakes. John was heading with his group for a col above the lakes, and hopefully a summit, and I was again flower-spotting on a shorter walk.
Group climbing up through wild daffodils |
Marmot on guard duty |
On our way down we were
honoured by a very close view of a marmot, who stood at
the entrance of the burrow and didn't seem bothered at
all at this group of humans pointing lenses at him (or
her) for minutes on end. I think we got bored first!
It was misty and damp on the way down, especially on the steep and muddy descent through the woods to the road. No time for a drink (the bars looked closed in any case), as we arrived only minutes before a bus was due.
Back to the drying room.......
It was misty and damp on the way down, especially on the steep and muddy descent through the woods to the road. No time for a drink (the bars looked closed in any case), as we arrived only minutes before a bus was due.
Back to the drying room.......
June 8: Encamp
John & I swapped roles today, and I took the C walk group - a much diminished group as only 6 still had any energy left after the previous two days' C walks! We had a long drive in the mini-bus to Arcalis, and having dropped the D+ walking group in the main ski-resort area headed up a blue run in the bus and into the mist. We arrived at the entrance to a tunnel, the remains of an abandoned project to tunnel through to France, and Vicente gave us a celebratory swerving circle in the bus before letting us out.I must admit that I didn't think we would make the top as we climbed steeply up through the thickening mist to the top of a chair lift. I was even more convinced we wouldn't make it as we trudged up a steep snow-field looking for way-markers. I was proved wrong, as the ascent got no more difficult, albeit steep, & we were able to skirt the snow patches whilst still managing to spot the paint blobs. Just in case though I had my compass & GPS at the ready.
Strangely, on the top ridge there was very little wind and it was dry. The only thing missing was the view! So we got to the top without much difficulty, & agreed it would be a great walk in good weather!
Group in the mist on the summit of Pic Caterperdis |
Is this the elusive Androsace Vandelii? |
Coming down was a different
matter, as the first stretch to the
Estanys de
l’Algonella was extremely steep scree. Luckily it
was slightly damp and therefore reasonably firm. It
did take some time, however, before we were safely
tucked up beside the lake for lunch. It was in this
break that I spotted a tiny patch of white flowers
that turned out to be the species that Alan, a
botanist on the previous week, had wanted to see.
After lunch it was an everlasting descent, initially complicated by snow patches hidden in gulleys through which the path obviously descended. We became masters of diversions, and made it to the bus pick-up point only 15 minutes late, but more or less at the same time as our mini-bus arrived.
After lunch it was an everlasting descent, initially complicated by snow patches hidden in gulleys through which the path obviously descended. We became masters of diversions, and made it to the bus pick-up point only 15 minutes late, but more or less at the same time as our mini-bus arrived.
June 9: Encamp
Free day - well I thought it was going to be, but there was a great demand for the ridge walk from the Pic de Maia - mainly as the weather forecast was good for a change. However, we didn't expect it to be quite as cold as it turned out to be! Heading up the valley at least the temperatures on the electronic signs were positive (+7), unlike last week (-2). However a cold wind was blowing, which made the ridge walk somewhat less pleasant than anticipated. This didn't detract from the views at all - almost clear in all directions, although the cloud did start descending over the higher peaks as the day wore on.As usual we managed to find a spot for lunch by a lake that was out of the wind. Then followed a delightful descending path through pine woods before reaching the road, bar and bus at the Val d'Incles. The bar visit presented the usual problem here - smokers. Smoking in bars is not banned in Andorra, so to avoid being kippered we avoided the first bar, and sat outside at the second, despite the dropping temperature.....
View down to the Siscaro refuge and valley |
June 10: Encamp
Another day, another walk, and this time I had the bulk of the group for a D+ walk from the Val d'Incles. No fine sunny morning today, but a grey cloudy morning with the constant threat of rain. Indeed, now and then there was a light sprinkle of rain, just enough to raise an umbrella or put on a cag. It was a steady climb from the start, through a number of scented plants; the fragrant orchid, vanilla orchid and garland flower all warranted a brief sniff, even if you had to get down on your knees to reach the plants.After an hour and a half we reached the refuge at Sorda, and just above it was Sorda lake, tucked in a corrie (cwm or cirque depending on the inclination of your geography teacher), and so out of the wind that the reflections were perfect.
Sorda lake |
Large-flowered ButterwortAt last it was downhill all the way for an early finish to the walk, and a visit to an empty & therefore smoke-free bar, before heading for the bus stop & back to the hotel. |
June 11: Encamp
At last a weather forecast to write home about (except that the weather seemed better at home!). The sun was shining and promised to do so all day. We had a long mini-bus ride up past the ski resort of Arinsal and up the winding road to the Spanish border. As there was insufficient demand for the harder walk we all set off together, with John leading at the front, and me at the back (an excellent position to play the photographer).The walk up the border ridge was spectacular, with views in both directions, and the clouds forming and shifting all the time to give changing atmospheric perspectives to the views.
Walking the Spanish-Andorran border |
It was our first really warm lunch, sitting along the ridge above the 1000m descent that awaited us after lunch. Bearded vultures were gliding along the ridge, and beside me a lizard was warming in the sun (and presumably keeping an eye out for dropped crumbs).
Bearded Vulture
The first part of the descent, to the Pedrosa hut, was pleasant and, as it seemed early, we sunbathed on the grass beside the hut. We could see the odd group on their way up, or down, Coma Pedrosa - Andorra's highest mountain - and wondered how it was possible at C grade to get up and down in time. Many people stay at the hut, and set off from there. The hut being prepared for the season, so no beers today.The second part of the descent was not so fun, as it went on, and on, and on, and on. Eventually we came out at the entrance to a road tunnel under an avalanche barrier and, to our relief, the mini-bus was at the other end of the tunnel. A good days walk with warmth and no rain!
June 12: The End
The end of the holiday and the end of my two weeks' leading, and, of course, the forecast for the next few days in Andorra seemed good - at least John will benefit as he stays on to meet the next group.After a morning of wondering round looking for Salvador Dali's sculpture (which they have moved down to Andorra la Vella!) we reassembled for the coach to take us to Toulouse. As it arrived half an hour after the time we had been given there was time for a formal group photo - what a happy bunch!!
